A Taste of Spring in France from Susan of On Rue Tatin

Last month, I posted a delicious braised chicken recipe from one of my favorite books, On Rue Tatin: Living and Cooking in a French Town by Susan Herrmann Loomis who lives, cooks, teaches and writes in a small city in Normandy. I've wanted to meet Susan ever since I first read her book five years ago. So you can imagine my delight when she emailed me to thank me for the post - like meeting a celebrity! And, as I expected, she's a lovely person.

Since my six-month-old, my almost four-year-old, and our house renovation (exciting! also stressful and time-consuming) have really put a crimp in my ability to cook and blog these past few months, I asked my new friend, Susan, if she'd be interested in doing a guest post. Happily, she said yes! Read on for this lovely taste of spring from northern France. Enjoy! -Eve

The surprise snowfall of a few days ago has barely melted in this clement region of France, where we count snow days on one hand. It was lovely while it lasted. Everything was blanketed in white, and oh so quiet. I live in the center of a bustling town and the few cars that managed to navigate the streets sounded like they had slippers on their tires!

My house (a restored 15th century convent) and yard blanketed with snow a few days ago.

As the snow melts it reveals not dead leaves and the detritus of late winter, but baby daffodils that were just about to bloom, the tips of tulip leaves poking from the ground, tender leaves on rose bushes, and buds on the hydrangeas.

That’s all décor. When it comes to food, I see tendrils of tarragon waving in the breeze, along with a vigorous sorrel plant that seems to have sprouted leaves under the snow. The arugula is well on its way, and bronze fennel fronds are poking up here and there. Our snow halted everything but garden growth, which bodes well for spring meals.

The garden at Rue Tatin with a swirl of radish plants.

To be honest, I cannot wait for a change in season. I love winter vegetables more than life itself, but around about March, my palate is itching for change. And it’s here. We’re already getting the first radishes, and Provence is providing us with sweet-smelling strawberries. We’ll soon have baby onions and turnips and a whole array of sorely missed lettuces. And in no time at all, that very special denizen of spring, local asparagus.

Meantime, though, patience is called for, dreams are not yet the stuff of reality. We’ve still got beautiful winter vegetables, and it is up to the creative cook to make them appear exciting. I do it through sleight of hand.

Beets are still firm and juicy, and instead of roasting or pureeing them, at this moment I grate and turn them into a spicy, shallot-rich salad. Carrots? I’m not going to make any more pot au feu for awhile and will, instead, braise them in turmeric to give them new life. Endives remain a favorite, but instead of caramelizing them with garlic I’ll dice and toss them with a garlicky vinaigrette, walnuts, and Roquefort. Leeks? In the winter I add them to soup or stew but now, I’ll sauté them until they’re tender and bright green, and serve them as a fresh side vegetable.

These little changes will keep us all happy until spring is truly here, and on the plate. And in the meantime, there are those gorgeous radishes.

How to eat them to show off their best? Slather fresh butter on a thick slice of baguette, dip a radish in fleur de sel, and munch away. There is no better taste of spring!

You can find more of Susan's writing and recipes on her web site and her blog. She also teaches cooking classes at her home in Louviers and at various spots in the U.S.

You might also like:

• Harvesting Wild Ramps: A How-To & a Bunch of Good Recipes
• Lemon Aioli, Roasted Beets, Asparagus & Oven Fries - An Homage To Spring
• On the Hunt for Wild Greens - Miner's Lettuce Might Be All Around You...

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